tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31503568287826092132024-02-19T05:18:56.459-08:00Finchingefeld's Fancieselewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-68877101414081471962015-09-28T22:14:00.000-07:002015-09-28T22:14:24.099-07:00OK, I give up. <br />
<br />
This blog keeps deleting my pictures and requests for help have gone unanswered. Googling for an answer hasn't helped, either, so I've started another blog at:<br />
www.ladyelewys.wordpress.com. Some of my entries here will be duplicated and updated at the new site. Eventually I may move it to its own domain, but in the meantime, please visit the new location. <br />
<br />
Best regards,<br />
Elewyselewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-79285222797736193252015-06-20T18:05:00.002-07:002015-06-20T21:49:01.974-07:00Lampworkers Guild stuff & Lampwork 101<img height="225" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/10259159_10206720034781185_6791345091709385250_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
Here are the finished sets of beads for the Lampworker's Guild to be given as gifts to various Royals at Pennsic. I will need to mail these to the appropriate person soon...<br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10986615_10206719909778060_1792337456277703102_n.jpg?oh=f9babd9debd3ce73a09039209942b803&oe=563279B9" width="180" /><br />
While I was making beads, I got a little silly and made this little bee.<br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/11430278_10206641482457426_4467403763537161867_n.jpg?oh=5c8be4bf0f8b388f6a225d189838bf66&oe=5623361F" width="180" /><br />
I also tested a few combinations for fun and to see if some colors were happy working with one another. Green and yellow is very tricky.<br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/t31.0-8/11412204_10206607477967335_7013553986205093293_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
These were sets that I was putting together for largesse, however, due to the Lampworker's Guild needing more beads made, they got re-allocated to that project. Just means I need to make MORE BEADS!<br />
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I'm looking forward to teaching my beginner's class in a couple weeks! I think it's going to be very popular and my co-teacher and I are going to have to try to get many people to work the torches, and hopefully they'll be able to make at least one bead each. In a conversation tonight, I thought I'd put a little bit of my Beginner's Lampwork information here for you to peruse.<br />
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Equipment: Here's a list of the things you will need to start bead making.<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/11053264_10206486861992011_7264856668070558904_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
1. Blue tank of propane. Not only is it portable and clean, but it also is the right size for clamping down. If you have the know-how, you can also refill these from the propane tank on your BBQ...<br />
2. Hot Head torch. This piece is necessary for melting the glass at the right temperature. Craft torches and things you get at those home hardware places will burn your glass and turn it grey and gross looking.<br />
3. 3" C-clamp<br />
4. 6" L bracket<br />
5. 3" hose clamp (the circle thing)<br />
6. SAFETY GLASSES (most bead makers will recommend tinted lenses to save your eyes from damage staring at the bright flame)<br />
7. Flathead screwdriver<br />
8. A cookie sheet with a lip on it. <br />
9. Pliers<br />
10. Lighter (I recommend a long lighter--the kind you use to light your BBQ)<br />
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<img height="400" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11225719_10206465822706042_427488348665124577_n.jpg?oh=20bb24dd287db5e1909822626f805f2a&oe=55F63A5B" width="225" /><br />
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11. 1 gallon bucket. An ice cream bucket is the perfect size. Just what you needed--an excuse to buy a bucket of ice cream! Go ahead...eat it while you read.<br />
12. Fine grain vermiculite. Found in your local garden department. You can get a small bag of it and share it between a couple lampworkers. <br />
13. Bead release. This jar of goodness will keep the glass from sticking to the metal rods. I recommend the Frantz Bead Separator; it runs $7 or $8 for a 4 oz. jar which will help you make several hundred beads. It's also flame-dry or air dry; some air-dry types will pop if you put it into the flame when it's still damp, which means you have to scrape it off and re-dip. (Also, you will have to add a bit of water from time to time--it tends to get really thick or completely dried out.)<br />
14. Mandrils. These are the metal rods that you need to dip into the Bead Separator. I would start with small ones, like 1/16".<br />
15. Glass rods. It's VERY important that you get glass that has the same COE (coefficient of expansion) or you will end up with broken and cracked beads. Most lampworkers use 104 COE. <br />
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It seems like an extensive list, but a lot of it is little things that you might even have kicking around your garage. The rest you can mail order or pick up at your local hardware store.<br />
<br />
Where to order glass and torch heads:<br />
www.Frantzartglass.com. They're located in Shelton, WA, will pack up your order quickly and bubble wrap the heck out of it! If you have questions or concerns, they get back to you fast to help you. I can't say enough nice things about them!<br />
http://www.devardiglass.com is another company my husband ordered from a couple times. They're also a good place, but I haven't worked with them myself, so I recommend Frantz. :)<br />
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If you are looking for heraldic colors to make beads, here are some part numbers for glass that I have found to work really well (they're also all 104 COE, so you'll KNOW that it's right!):<br />
White 591204<br />
Black Tuxedo 511872<br />
Red Dark Effetre 591436<br />
Yellow Lemon Medium 591408<br />
Green Grass 591216 (although this can be hit-and-miss with other colors--work with lower temperatures to make sure it doesn't bleed into others, and/or use a blob of clear between layers)<br />
Blue Lapis Cobalt Pastel 591246<br />
Purple -- this is a tricky one...there really isn't a *good* purple, but you can get pretty good results from Grape Ape 511654 or Thai Orchid 511632<br />
Clear: 591004<br />
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Other part numbers to look for:<br />
Hot Head: 110137<br />
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Mandrels: 1/16" 324316 or 3/32" 324332</div>
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Fusion Bead Separator: 332104<br />
Graphite Paddle (a shaping tool): 301212 or 301302<br />
Marvers, Probes, Picks and Rakes: other tools you can search for that can help you make fun shapes and manipulate glass. This is for the 201 class, however... You can pick up a cheap set of dental tools that you can start with--just remember that the metal has to stay cool or the glass will stick to it. <br />
You can find videos on YouTube on how to make glass beads. </div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-79962880250025743812015-06-01T10:18:00.002-07:002015-06-01T10:19:05.240-07:00HATS!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="400" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11391113_10206580584415013_1591596830928234773_n.jpg?oh=5d5ad15a7fb9fe75306c791c68be294e&oe=560A1D3F" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="225" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">13th century Pleated Fillet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="400" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11329782_10206580199845399_3063099797883505327_n.jpg?oh=0c66334721425c2ece6ace46d1f09bc2&oe=55FC95A2" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="225" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">13th century Piecrust Fillet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you can see, I did a little hat making over the last couple of days. <br />
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I am now making upgrades to a mustard-yellow tunic, adding a chocolate brown panel at the bottom and finishing the seams. I will need to make a few more tunics in upcoming weeks, should the Baronial coronets be offered to us. More waiting...</div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-638677251651335982015-05-25T21:27:00.000-07:002015-05-26T21:05:44.325-07:00Costume Repairs & PlansAfter attending May Crown a couple weeks ago, it came to my attention that a few of my garments needed some repairs and upgrades. One shift needed a longer neckline--it was cutting me off at the throat. One shift had a couple of seams that had popped--one on the arm and one in the armpit. Then the apron dress...linen...gorgeous color...entirely sewn by hand...and the thread was not strong enough, so it snapped in a couple places. <br />
<br />
After making all those repairs, I decided to beef up my 12th century outfit, just in case I have occasion to wear it in the near future. I usually do something in the Viking sphere or something a little later period, like Flemish peasant. Since we just finished the polling two days ago, and my coronet candidate partner is 12th century, I am trying to keep a positive attitude for the outcome and be prepared for the season. I wanted us to dress in matching eras, although my garments might lean a little toward the 13th century instead of 12th. <br />
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I took the mustard-yellow gown that I made a couple years ago. It had shrunk horribly in the wash, so what was a floor-length gown was suddenly...very short. After a short debate, I decided to add gores to the front and back to add fullness. Then I added 8" of brown fabric to the bottom...I may add some embroidery at some point, although that may be some time from now.<br />
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Here are a couple things that I want to aim for. The overgown is a sideless surcoat that can cover up all manner of sins. Especially a love for second helpings and dessert. I also love the hats....<br />
<br />
<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/8b/a6/8f/8ba68fc1ba135882c7376a5a99465e32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Cyclas (over tunic), barbette (under chin strap) & fillet ('pie crust' hat)" border="0" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/8b/a6/8f/8ba68fc1ba135882c7376a5a99465e32.jpg" /></a><img alt="Isabella of Hainault (Valenciennes,[1] 5 April 1170 – 15 March 1190, Paris) was queen consort of France as the first wife of King Philip II of France." src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/cd/4e/ee/cd4eee040eba4ee754652b5adf164094.jpg" /><br />
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And more hats:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/7a/8a/f5/7a8af5f901b60d266a6758c5137d8ecf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="13th Century Toque over barbette over snood (or caul). Lid? Toque vs. fillet?" border="0" height="133" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/7a/8a/f5/7a8af5f901b60d266a6758c5137d8ecf.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/f7/ff/54/f7ff546f6da6cb2b0ba2c98f95ff57f2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Barbette & snood set, ruffled fillet" border="0" height="200" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/f7/ff/54/f7ff546f6da6cb2b0ba2c98f95ff57f2.jpg" width="193" /></a><a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b9/8d/67/b98d674502d22d154658da020ab3ce5e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Medieval Snoods -" border="0" height="200" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b9/8d/67/b98d674502d22d154658da020ab3ce5e.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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<br />
I have several bits of linen scraps that I can use to make some of these hats. I'm not sure I agree with the shape of the "barbette", the layer under the hat and chin strap; I think it might have simply been a coif. I'll have to make some pieces and see how it looks.<br />
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I also want to learn how to make netting for a snood, like the lady in the purple on the far right. It reminds me of some of the hairnets that were in fashion off an on through the 1950s...but I need to make a barbette to go with it. By the way, if you Google "Barbette" you come up with a drag queen from the 1920s. Just...FYI.elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-32591386068138518392015-04-29T12:21:00.002-07:002015-04-29T12:40:40.941-07:00Baronial Candidates: Our Vision<div style="font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16px; padding: 0px;">
HL Elewys and HL Aenor - Our Vision for Aquaterra</div>
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We, Elewys Cuylter of Finchingfield and Aenor de Pessac, have a multi-faceted vision for Aquaterra, which can be summarized into two categories:</div>
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1. Action for improvement</div>
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2. Listen and learn</div>
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Action and improvement</div>
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For this first stage we want to do the following:</div>
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<li>We want to encourage education in Aquaterra. The people of Aquaterra have a great passion for knowledge. At the end of 2013, Elewys proposed the start of classes for Ithra credit at Aquaterra’s monthly socials. Working with Emma Compton, Aquaterra’s A&S champion, these classes have been immensely popular. We want to continue in this vein by supporting more workshops and classes. We’d like to welcome dance classes and more hands-on activities at our socials, utilizing the knowledge of the members of the populace and embracing the interest expressed through increased attendance at the socials.</li>
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<li>We also want to support Art of War and its new rapier track. This is a great opportunity for Art of War to grow and include more members of the Kingdom population. Perhaps by this support we will be able to increase rapier interest in the Aquaterra populace and improve the participation at the rapier championship.</li>
</ul>
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<li>We would like Aquaterra to work more collaboratively with the Canton of Bearwood. The Canton is comprised of a small group of talented, warm, welcoming people that have created a community of kindness and inclusion. Yet the relationship between Aquaterra and Bearwood hasn’t been very collaborative in several years. We would like to build that relationship, which would benefit both communities.</li>
</ul>
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<li>We believe that we need to streamline Aquaterra’s events to revitalize our community. Aquaterra is struggling with a problem many SCA communities face at some point: the participant pool has diminished, and the same small number of people shuffle around the officer and event steward positions. This leads to burnout, and cycles between the group further diminishing and reliance upon a smaller participant pool. In order to face this challenge, we believe that an analysis and streamlining of Aquaterra’s events is necessary. There is great love for each of the events Aquaterra hosts, yet we have an unusual task of taking on an imposing public event annually. Ursulmas draws upon a pool of participants for six to 12 months to organize this massive tournament, which can limit the energy and ability of those participants for other events, both within and outside of our borders. Additionally, the average barony in An Tir hosts 4 annual events. Aquaterra hosts six annual events, supports the Canton’s three annual events, plus is a crucial participant in the Shire of Shittimwoode’s Warren War. We believe a full and frank discussion is necessary with the populace. We, as a community, need to identify our priorities, strengths, needs, and how we’ve been faring the last few years, in terms of volunteerism, participation, and financial viability. We don’t want to dictate to the community what events to discontinue - we believe that if the decision is made, it needs to be made by the people of Aquaterra.</li>
</ul>
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<li>We want to improve the event steward process to build a community of knowledge.Each year, event stewards face a challenge of trying to glean lessons from previous event reports and event bids. Frequently knowledge is lost from year to year. In the past, there was a team of event stewards working on Ursulmas that created a ‘master and apprentice’ relationship for each role. This was a helpful and sustaining method. We think an amalgamation of the event bid process and the ‘master and apprentice’ process could create a stronger event steward team. We would like to have our event steward teams to utilize learning notebooks which contain all the materials from the bid sheet to the final event report, which can be passed on to the next year’s event team to learn from and digitized to prevent loss. We also want to create an ‘expectation of education’, in which the previous year’s event stewards are resources to the current year’s event stewards.We would like to build stronger relationships with other Baronies in An Tir.</li>
</ul>
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<li>Aquaterra is blessed to be geographically close to so many incredible Baronies. And we, Elewys and Aenor, would like Aquaterra be known as an active friend to those around us. The North Sound Sergeantry trials have been a wonderful step in that direction, but we could do more. We would like to build treaties with our neighbors, in which we support each other with volunteers for events - large or small. One of the problems our barony has faced is that we are an insular crowd. By stepping out of our comfort zone and building stronger ties with the communities around us we can expose ourselves to greater ideas. This could do so much to grow and better our community and ourselves.</li>
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<li>We would like to promote service to the Kingdom, participation at the Kingdom-level events, and at events throughout the Kingdom.Aquaterra is just a fraction of the greater community of An Tir. We would like to recognize this and do what we can to allow Aquaterra and members of our populace to be more active throughout all of An Tir. There are many ways we can do this:</li>
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We can host Kingdom guild competitions at Kingdom-wide events, such as the Kingdom Costumer’s Guild, Kingdom Embellishers Guild, or the new Kingdom Apothecary Guild.</div>
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We could have Kingdom largess-making competitions and parties to help spread the skills of Aquaterra artisans across the Kingdom, as well as replenish the diminished largesse coffers.</div>
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We would like to help Aquaterrans have a ‘home away from home’ at events hosted outside our lands. We want to promote the Aquaterra camping area with a fire hosted by the Baronesses, in which anyone, Aquaterran or not, can join the circle. We can also foster a larger community by hosting a potluck breakfast or Stone Soup lunch at ‘away events’ for anyone wanting company or a meal to join.</div>
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Some populace members miss out on events outside Aquaterra because of the limitation caused by distance. We could create ‘get to know you’ opportunities at the monthly socials for people looking for a ride to an event (or people to camp with) to meet others attending said events that are willing to open their camps and transports. This would allow attendees to connect and build relationships before hitting the road.</div>
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<li>We also would like to have the Barony recognize the accomplishments Aquaterrans made outside the barony. We would like to publically recognize these accomplishments, such as winning competitions, teaching at events, and awards given by Their Majesties and other branches. We could accomplish this in the Murmurs newsletter, the Aquaterra web site, and other social media.</li>
</ul>
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<li>We would like to improve Aquaterra’s presence in the greater Snohomish County community. Just as Aquaterra is part of the larger Kingdom community, we are part of the larger Snohomish County community. There is an interest and a compassion in our people for the community of the modern world. In December 2014, Aenor organized with Baroness Sineadin a toy and food drive for HelpLink of Snohomish County. The outpouring of donations demonstrates how much interest is present. Additionally, in July 2014, Aenor worked with United Way of Snohomish County to create a donation station at the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation’s annual employee picnic for victims of the Oso mudslide. With the connections we have in our modern communities, there is a lot of good we Aquaterrans could do for our neighbors. We, Aenor and Elewys, have discussed opportunities for toy and game drives for Seattle Children’s Hospital and other fundraisers.</li>
</ul>
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<strong>Listen and Learn</strong></div>
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We, Elewys and Aenor, believe that every person deserves to have their voice heard. In that vein, for the listen and learn stage, we would like to do the following:</div>
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<li>Communicate with former members and members not currently active in the barony. </li>
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Aquaterra has suffered, over the last few years, a ‘mass exodus’ of a large portion of our Sergeants and other members of the populace. We know that some wounds cannot be healed, but we, Elewys and Aenor, want to reach out to these people and learn from past mistakes. Every person in Aquaterra deserves the chance to be heard, whether they currently play in the Barony or not. We want to hear their grievances, hear their advice, and ask them what would make them consider coming back. There is also a greater group of SCA participants that don’t play on the baronial level. This ranges from knights to merchants to people interested in larger events. We would like to ask what they, too, want from the SCA, and if Aquaterra could possibly provide it.</div>
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<li>We want to provide ‘market research’ for Aquaterra. </li>
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We want to hear the thoughts and ideas and criticisms of the people, and use those to build and shape the Aquaterra that they want to be in. What have people liked over the past few years? What have they not liked? What do they miss? What do they see in other branches that they would like to see here? At the core of the job, the Baronet of Aquaterra is a servant to the populace. Though we have our own ideas and visions, we want to respect the visions of our people. We want to help each person build the community that will continue on, long after we have stepped down.</div>
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<li>We want to create a community of open communication.</li>
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A coronet is an intimidating thing. It is a symbol of office and responsibility, but it is also a barrier that often prevents honest dialogue. With this in mind, we would like to host quarterly Parliaments--open discussions-- with the people. These “bare-head” nights will be in a public area, so each person feels like they are on equal ground. And on these nights, we, Aenor and Elewys, will literally and symbolically remove our coronets and hear the voices of the people. It’s a night in which people can feel free of the intimidation of the headgear and can speak to us as equals, with no fear of reprisal. Any populace member wanting to discuss a topic can decide if they want the discussion to be public or private. And the topics can range from issues with the coronets to mediations between populace members. This is an opportunity for the populace to drive the conversation, not rely on an agenda compiled in advance. We want to hear the populaces’ criticisms as well as accolades. It’s only through this open and honest dialogue can we keep our community healthy and strong.</div>
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<li>We want to learn from other communities in An Tir and the Known World.</li>
</ul>
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We aren’t experts, and we aren’t all-knowing. But there are skills and experience in so many people across An Tir. We want to go to Madrone’s curia and just sit in the back and learn from what we see and hear. We want to ask other coronets their opinions on Aquaterra and what solutions and ideas they think would be good to bring home to our branch. We also want to build dialogue with contacts outside An Tir. We would like to contact Baronets from across the Knowne Worlde; from the Kingdom of the West to the Kingdom of Drachenwald. We want to bring their fresh ideas to liven our community, and share with other branches of An Tir.</div>
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We are servants of our Kingdom and our Barony, no matter our titles and achievements. Each person has the power to impact the health and life of our Kingdom and branch. But with the opportunities provided by the Baronet, we, Aenor and Elewys, could help Aquaterra achieve great changes and great growth. With this vision of our path, we could certainly do amazing things.</div>
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In Service,</div>
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HL Elewys Cuylter of Finchingefeld</div>
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HL Aenor de Passac</div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-131735718713952052015-04-22T21:26:00.000-07:002015-07-20T18:39:55.104-07:00Six Weeks Later...I guess it's been a while since I posted! The Easter-to-June part of the year is always supremely hectic with Tourney Season ramping up and the school year winding down. A few things I've done in that time...<br />
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I bought a spinning wheel, a Lendrum single treadle, and finally started in ernest to wash the fleece given to me by HL Godith from her flock. It was shorn 9 years ago and I have been happily turning fluffy stuff into yarn over the past few weeks. <br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/22693_10206131064497296_6416597449273883504_n.jpg?oh=00b89286ff90307e7f559ec346d9926e&oe=55DFEEC0" width="180" /> <img height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10633841_10206086037571651_4099941230673724426_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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<img height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/11134148_10206279686812761_6179814705676032494_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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The last spool of white is not pictured...it was on the wheel. I unspooled the pink, got it wet, and am blocking it now (by hanging a 20 oz. bottle of Gatorade on it), so I can start spinning spool #7. After that, I'll have to skein up the spools so I can spin some more. All this spun yarn is destined to become a piece of cloth to be made into a garment--my first sheep-to-shawl project (not that it'll be a shawl, but some wearable garment, probably an overtunic.<br />
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For the Perfectly Period Feast in An Tir, I made this ensemble (left) for the 1470s era Italian Renaissance Feast. Pictured with me is my bestie, Aenor, who is running as my Sister-Baroness for our Barony. We won't be the first girl-girl pairing, but the first in our Kingdom. Not only is this an exciting prospect for us, but for Inspirational Equality. Not that we're in that kind of relationship--we are both very happily involved with our respective men (who, I swear, must have been separated at birth!)--we're just friends.<br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/22128_364055910451985_1499667227454708460_n.jpg?oh=f66688415a6c3ad10214b2d4df7d5d0d&oe=564C8A22" width="212" /><br />
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Exciting times!elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-63088573354652836942015-03-13T22:50:00.000-07:002015-07-20T18:48:40.250-07:00Weaving and Recuperating It's been a little while since I did any posts, so I guess I have some catching up to do!<br />
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Most recently, I did a commission piece for my old friend, Don Miguel. He's constructing a new Elizabethan outfit and wanted a little something to add to the garment--something hand made by a friend is always better than factory made by a stranger.<br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/1537920_10205896166825001_9131099208012251778_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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This is a 2 yard piece and I hope to get it to him soon!<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11054443_10205974400180786_7036946803206411230_n.jpg?oh=227df62c7358dac98fde4b9bd661a78f&oe=55BA59CF" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11054443_10205974400180786_7036946803206411230_n.jpg?oh=227df62c7358dac98fde4b9bd661a78f&oe=55BA59CF" width="400" /></a>After finishing up a couple quilt projects and helping the middle kid with Girl Scout cookie sales, I started this very tiny, delicate trim from Applesies and Fox Noses. This one is called "Bee Feet" and will be 4 yards long when complete. It's made from size 10 perle cotton--the kind you can get by the spool at any craft store (Michael's, Joann's, etc.). I ended up using 2 spools of each color for the 16 cards. The weaving itself is only 1/2" wide, is very silky and flexible. This will be great for trim for a tunic. <br />
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I have a great desire to work on some beads or some spinning on my new wheel...and of course, I'm laid up with an infection on my leg. I'm supposed to keep my leg elevated and I'm taking some serious antibiotics and anti-inflammatories, and it's difficult to do any kind of arts with my feet up. Knitting...but I'm not really feeling like knitting, and keeping a pattern nearby...never mind. I'll blog and check Facebook.<br />
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Hopefully I'll be back to normal in a few days.elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-67395150431695063862015-02-17T21:22:00.001-08:002015-07-20T18:49:58.113-07:00Applesies #10: Diamond ApplesiesThis is one of those patterns that I will need to follow the pattern, step by step, all the way to the end. This is not an easy repeating pattern that can be memorized...at least by me. It's the last of the "easy" patterns...I'm thinking this probably should have been included in the next section.<br />
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I had a lot of difficulty choosing colors for this one, but finally settled on navy blue with a blue-grey background and a border of red and rust-orange. <br />
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So once you warp up your loom, you will start rotating your cards starting from the BC position. Your cards will be facing right. <br />
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Cards 1-3 and 20-22 will always be turning forward.<br />
Turning sequence is:<br />
First: 1-3 F; 4 B; 5-6 F; 7-9 B; 10-13 F; 14-16 B; 17-18 F; 19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Second: 1-5 F; 6-8 B; 9-14 F; 15-17 B; 18-22 F<br />
Third: 1-4 F; 5-6 B; 7-16 F; 17-18 B; 19-22 F<br />
Fourth: 1-3 F; 4-5 B; 6-17 F; 18-19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Fifth: 1-3 F; 4 B; 5-6 F; 7-16 B; 17-18 F; 19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Sixth: 1-5 F; 6-17 B; 18-22 F<br />
Seventh: 1-4 F; 5-18 B; 19-22 F<br />
Eighth: 1-3 F; 4-19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Ninth: 1-3 F; 4-19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Tenth: All forward<br />
Eleventh: All forward<br />
Twelfth: 1-3 F; 4 B; 5-18 F; 19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Thirteenth: 1-3 F; 4-5 B; 6-17 F; 18-19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Fourteenth: 1-4 F; 5-6 B; 7-16 F; 17-18 B; 19-22 F<br />
Fifteenth: 1-5 F; 6-17 B; 18-22 F<br />
Sixteenth: 1-3 F; 4 B; 5-6 F; 7-16 B; 17-18 F19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Seventeenth: 1-3 F; 4-5 B; 6-8 F; 9-14 B; 15-17 F; 18-19 B; 20-22 F<br />
Eighteenth: 1-4 F; 5-6 B; 7-9 F; 10-13 B; 14-16 F; 17-18 B; 19-22 F<br />
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See what I mean? I can't memorize this. I was told that you look at the pattern and that will tell you how to turn the cards...it's a lovely pattern...it's just going to take some extra time.<br />
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The back is EXTRA cool!<br />
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<img height="400" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/13783_10205798002210947_7640976285321012820_n.jpg?oh=1f80e18263d6046976ef8d6c97dd0d58&oe=565BB294" width="225" /><br />
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-89400191262041097802015-02-15T13:05:00.000-08:002015-02-15T13:05:49.997-08:00Applesies #8Took a step back (or turned a page back) and started Applesies #8 while visiting with my delightful MIL on Valentine's Day. Hubby and his dad went out to the movies, and the ladies stayed behind...I didn't have any need to see Jupiter Ascending. This one is called Fine Crooked Knees with Small Applesies. Maybe it loses something in the translation from Finnish. I liked the color combination from the sample in the book so much that I decided to copy it...although I used Navy blue instead of black, but otherwise it's the same.<br />
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The turning sequence is as follows:<br />
* with cards A-D on the top, cards 1-9 back, 10-14 forward (x 3)<br />
* all cards back one quarter-turn<br />
* cards 1-5 forward, 6-14 back (x 3)<br />
* cards 1-5 back, 6-14 forward (x 3)<br />
* all cards forward one quarter-turn<br />
* cards 1-9 forward, 10-14 back (x 3)<br />
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Now, if you want to have lovely, tidy edges, you could turn cards 1, 2, 13, 14 forward always, then reverse direction when it gets over-twisted.<br />
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<img height="360" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/10960318_10205774791710699_7872465072845553157_o.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<br />elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-26981336363617433942015-02-10T22:34:00.001-08:002015-02-15T10:53:47.565-08:00Applesies #9United Chicken Runs is weave #9 and while I wanted to do #8, I saw this one and went...oooo! <br />
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SO, again, while I can't disclose the threading because it's *in the book* (which, if you are still reading my blog with interest, you should *totally buy*!), I will explain the turning sequence. <br />
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Cards 1-3 and 16-18 need to turn forward all the way through...or switch to turning backwards after it gets too twisted up. <br />
While that's going on, cards 4-15 will turn back for six turns.<br />
Then 1-3 forward, 4-7 will turn back, 8-11 forward, 12-15 back, 16-18 forward for two turns.<br />
1-3 forward, 4-5 back, 6-13 forward, 14-15 back, 16-18 forward for two turns.<br />
Then mirror...<br />
1-5 forward, 6-13 back, 14-18 forward for two turns.<br />
1-7 forward, 8-15 back, 16-18 forward for two turns.<br />
All forward for 6 turns.<br />
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That's the whole turning sequence!<br />
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<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10991104_10205745800465936_7568390205797743063_n.jpg?oh=f4c5f8f59988a1bc9319b21b408a0a68&oe=554C86A2&__gda__=1431064756_c1877f6dedfea38aa8731e53259e8a68" /><br />
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<img height="225" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10947404_10205767919058887_8955379893366485353_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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3 1/2 yards finished. elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-59688491280400406572015-02-10T22:21:00.000-08:002015-07-20T18:51:46.436-07:00Diagonals....Defeated by DragonsThis is a moment of sincere frustration. I found a very cool Dragon Heads pattern called "Dragehoveder" on the Historic Tablet Weaving Facebook page, but despite several attempts, verifying the threading, varying the turning sequences, and a lot of cussing, I finally decided that this was not going to happen. <br />
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The threading isn't very difficult...it's all dark-light-medium-light...<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/1547974_10205745859987424_4586245084662311427_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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I struggled with it for hours...literally...weaving, unweaving, cutting it off, trying again. <br />
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<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/1614124_10205716869622683_7745353008298773436_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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I didn't like having the orange-brown in it, either, so I replaced it with white (or rather shifted the grey to the "medium" color and made white the "light" color). After nearly throwing the loom across the room a few times, I abandoned the idea and made Egyptian Diagonals instead.<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10623799_10205738859132407_1335082928947039034_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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<img height="225" src="https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/10344157_10205738875412814_5734412166403895232_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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It came up to just under 3 yards, which is a yard shorter than my usual trim lengths. That's how much loss I had in attempting to make the dragon heads work. Grrrrr...<br />
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Now, if you want to do Egyptian Diagonals, it's fairly easy! So here's now it's done...<br />
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First, thread your cards (I used 14 in the project above)<br />
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<td colspan="2" height="19" style="height: 14.4pt; mso-ignore: colspan; width: 96pt;" width="128">Egyptian Diagonals</td>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">1</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">2</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">3</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">4</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">5</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">6</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">7</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">8</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">9</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">10</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">11</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">12</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">13</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">14</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navy </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grey </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navy </span></div>
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<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grey </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navy </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grey </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr height="19" style="height: 14.4pt;">
<td height="19" style="height: 14.4pt;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">B</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navy </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grey </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr height="19" style="height: 14.4pt;">
<td height="19" style="height: 14.4pt;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">C</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grey </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navy </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grey </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">White </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr height="19" style="height: 14.4pt;">
<td height="19" style="height: 14.4pt;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">D</span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-top: none;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navy </span></div>
</td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></td>
<td class="xl65" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Navy</span></td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></td>
<td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> White</span></td>
<td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Grey</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<div>
OK...Now that it's all warped up, get your weft anchored and turn a few passes forward to get the tension all good. Sorry...all my words went away and I'm brain. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Each turn is a quarter-turn. After each quarter turn, throw the shuttle. Each turning sequence will be done twice.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
So, turn all cards back and throw the shuttle. Repeat. </div>
<div>
Turn cards 1 and 2 forward, 3-14 back a quarter turn. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-4 forward, 5-14 back a quarter turn. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-6 forward, 7-14 back. Repeat</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-8 forward, 9-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-10 forward, 11-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-12 forward, 13-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn all cards forward. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Now you'll reverse stuff...</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-12 forward, 13-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-10 forward, 11-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-8 forward, 9-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-6 forward, 7-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-4 forward, 5-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn cards 1-2 forward, 3-14 back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
Turn all cards back. Repeat.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The problem with this pattern is that the outside cards will be twisted up terribly and the middle cards will twist and untwist evenly. If you have fishing spinners, this would be the pattern to use them on, otherwise, you will have to untwist your warp several times during your weaving. Of course, I couldn't find my spinners and had to untwist four or five times. Time consuming, for sure.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Easy enough? You can do it!</div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-71349808867442962252015-02-02T09:23:00.000-08:002015-06-02T11:56:42.094-07:00Colorful Small ApplesiesThe first pattern in the Applesies book is a fairly simple one-and-a-half pattern...I find this curious. Did the maker run out of cards? Or threads? Or just goof? Or was this one-and-a-half diamond pattern deliberate? We'll never know.<br />
<br />
The pattern is easy enough. After threading with the cards facing right--and remember, because this is a book that is currently being printed and sold, you need to buy the book to get the threading directions (I am only providing a little extra help reading the pattern)--make sure the cards are in the A-D position on top. <br />
<br />
There are 11 cards in this little weave, and the turning sequence is quite simple. The outside cards (three on the left, and two on the right) will continue to turn in the same direction--forward. The rest of the cards will turn three quarter-turns forward, three quarter-turns backward. Repeat! Easy as that. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/16301_10205688755799855_7557546066385950664_n.jpg?oh=d0275d314ece5eb4c1fd8f9e1fb761fa&oe=560232E1" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/16301_10205688755799855_7557546066385950664_n.jpg?oh=d0275d314ece5eb4c1fd8f9e1fb761fa&oe=560232E1" width="180" /></a>When the twist gets too much on the outside cards, reverse the direction to turn back instead of forward to untwist. After another yard or so, you may need to switch back to turning forward again. When you change directions, there will be a little lump of weft on the edges. It's normal. Don't worry. Keep on weaving!<br />
<br />
<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10827936_10205684982465524_3789361982023665351_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Finished piece--4 yards, about 1/2" wideelewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-27457269124161236812015-02-02T08:54:00.001-08:002015-06-02T11:57:53.562-07:00Applesies & Fox Noses #7: Tree Climbers<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">After finishing up the #1 band, Colorful Small Applesies, I started a new project for my dear friend, Bekah. She chose #7: Tree Climbers. It's a four-color band (could be done with 3, but the edging has a two similar light colors that alternate). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10941145_10205685967690154_4082530204374040567_n.jpg?oh=10c698ca49806520117fbac05cf7bcb1&oe=560D9B68" width="180" /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">This one is a bit more tricky, but not impossible...after some studying the pattern and experimentation, this is what I came up with:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Turn back all cards – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Then turn card numbers:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 back; 5-8 forward; 9-14 back
– two turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 back; 5-10 forward; 11-14
back – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 back; 5-6 forward; 7-14 back
– 2 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">When twist is too tight on the outside cards, you can reverse the directions of those cards to untwist…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 forward; 5-10 back; 11-14
forward – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-8 forward, 9-10 back, 11-14
forward – 2 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">All forward – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-6 forward; 7-10 back; 11-4
forward – 2 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The twist on 5, 6, 9, and 10 will
continue to build up, so you can either put spinners on those cards or untie
and untwist those cards when the twist becomes unmanageable. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">If, instead of untwisting, you
want to simply reverse the pattern, you can get a mirror image of the
pattern. If you want to try this, you would use: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Turn back all cards - 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 back; 5-8 forward; 9-14 back
– two turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 back; 5-10 forward; 11-14
back – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 back; 5-6 forward; 7-14 back
– 2 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">(just like in the first part…but
then…)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 forward; 5-6 back; 7-14
forward – 2 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 forward; 5-10 back; 11-14
forward – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">1-4 forward; 5-8 back; 9-14
forward – 2 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">All forward – 5 turns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Have fun!</span></div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-37111705544834644932015-01-27T14:26:00.002-08:002015-07-20T18:54:34.908-07:00Applesies at UrsulmasIt was Event Weekend last weekend! We had our Barony's big demo at the Fairgrounds that had record-breaking numbers. This was my view for the weekend. Not as Regal and Medieval as one might like. It is the grandstands of the racetrack. Most of the action was held in the big building next door. <br />
<br />
<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t31.0-8/10750358_10205650846092136_1939831892184643738_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
I finished up the "S" pattern rather quickly in anticipation for a demo at the Fairgrounds last weekend. Since I couldn't exactly take an empty loom for display, I warped up the first pattern in Applesies & Fox Noses, which is another Iron Age find from Finland. It almost looks like it was getting warped up and they ran out of thread...or cards...so they just went with what they had.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10941824_10205615201081033_7426827108504560177_n.jpg?oh=07e408df34b20afcf6f9215e6f6412eb&oe=5610B66F" width="180" /><br />
<br />
This is another seriously fast weave. I have about a yard done already. I'm looking forward to doing some more out of the book! This is #1: Colorful Small Applesies<br />
<br />
Here are the pieces that I had on display. I was next to my weaving buddy, Emma, so I loaned my weaving stuff for her display. She then won the prize for best display. Again. Glad I could help...no, I'm not upset--she puts together a great display!<br />
<br />
<img height="225" src="https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10919902_10205650850092236_33077807285753082_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
I also warped up the rigid heddle loom, although I really should have used a smaller yarn; the heddle is too small for this thick yarn. But hey, it was an experiment.<br />
<br />
<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t31.0-8/10917027_10205620954264859_9002145966645619538_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10171925_10205651013776328_6845890636541504907_n.jpg?oh=25368e2b3cdef58cec982602da065b64&oe=560660A2" width="180" />And finally, I set up and made some progress on the warp-weighted loom. Although I don't know if you can legitimately call it a "warp-weighted" loom if the warps are not yet weighted. I was talking with a couple of other weavers there, and they gave me some really great advise on how to proceed and tips on how to prevent issues. You can't see it very well in the display (below) so I took a picture of it set up in my living room. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t31.0-8/10835084_10205650847692176_8860185938436317599_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t31.0-8/10835084_10205650847692176_8860185938436317599_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
My artsy-friend and I set up a Lampworking area in the demo hall at the event. We have great ideas for improvements...although my kiddo is pretty awesome as part of the backdrop. She very carefully strung 10 feet worth of beads to help reduce the loss (we had a few things disappear from the table...sadly). <br />
<br />
I made a few beads on commission for a braid-bearded man...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10445949_10205650849132212_9117963634400831707_n.jpg?oh=07eede6e2ad69ee3fcd2b755e9d1cd2f&oe=56085145" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10445949_10205650849132212_9117963634400831707_n.jpg?oh=07eede6e2ad69ee3fcd2b755e9d1cd2f&oe=56085145" width="180" /></a><br />
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I also made sets of beads for Kingdom largesse. They are running really low, so they asked for sets of 3--one large and two smaller beads. I only got 3 sets done, but I hope to make more in the upcoming weeks and deliver them at Kingdom A&S in March.<br />
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I don't know if I can make quick and easy weaving for largesse--maybe I can do some smaller "test" pieces that I will donate.elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-37438112729980150262015-01-20T11:05:00.000-08:002015-07-20T18:56:06.712-07:00Applesies and Fox Noses!Happy new year, all! <br />
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All I wanted for Christmas was a copy of Applesies and Fox Noses...and a bike helmet. Lucky me--I got both!<br />
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<img alt="Applesies and Fox Noses - Finnish Tabletwoven Bands" src="http://www.salakirjat.net/tuotekuvat/900x600/Omenaisia_ja_revonnenia_Suomalaisia_lautanauhoja_copy1.jpg" height="320" width="229" /><br />
<br />
This is the new go-to book for tablet weaving historians this year (it's a bigger genre than you'd think!). Several of these patterns (not all) are based on historical finds from the Karelian iron age in a graveyard just a short drive north of Helsinki.<br />
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This book has some seriously complex patterns in it, but the first few look simple enough, so I started there. The first pattern wasn't quite so inspiring, so I turned a couple more pages and decided on pattern #5, the S Sign. <br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1970454_10205601285333148_367337955293399145_n.jpg?oh=f7148b209d493da65589a06837b13e7d&oe=560F1012" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1970454_10205601285333148_367337955293399145_n.jpg?oh=f7148b209d493da65589a06837b13e7d&oe=560F1012" width="180" /></a>Now, because this is in a book, I'm not sure if this is something I can publish in its entirety, so to avoid a problem with the authors, I'll just show you the turning sequence, which seems different than how the pattern is laid out*. <br />
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1. With A-D at the top of the pack, (my cards are colored blue on that side), turn all the cards back for five quarter-turns (toward the weaver).<br />
2. Split deck: cards 1-6: turn four quarter-turns back; cards 7-12: turn four quarter-turns forward.<br />
3. Turn all cards five quarter-turns forward<br />
4. Turn all cards five quarter-turns back<br />
5. Split deck: cards 1-6: turn four quarter-turns forward; cards 7-12: turn four quarter-turns back<br />
6. Turn all cards five quarter-turns forward<br />
<br />
*All cards have to face right, and there may be some adjustments in the future since I threaded it backwards to begin with...elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-77014350676259322232015-01-14T07:40:00.001-08:002015-07-20T18:58:17.824-07:00So I'm Weaving Along......on this pattern, that weirdly, doesn't look anything like the image...which is quite possibly a threading issue--I'll have to try this again when I get to the end. You know what they say--it's not a mistake, it's a new pattern!<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10887538_10205528278628026_6794665002431460435_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
...and something goes wrong. <br />
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The tension bar on the inkle loom that I've been using for 20 years finally died...the threading inside the wooden bit was not lined with a metal fitting; it's just wood. So after 1000 yards of trim or so, it stripped out. <br />
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<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10842253_10205557221511580_4125499193877537750_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
I tried to use my cheap-n-scuzzy "surfboard" loom but the tension was unreliable and the bolt chewed through one of my threads. It was time to move ahead to the next plan.<br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10896935_10205541573600392_1057477964554798793_n.jpg?oh=d5db4239d6f9b322c58d6d4700b8e52b&oe=5617659F" width="180" /><br />
<br />
Not wanting to waste time, I went ahead and built this in two days:<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10904501_10205553380135548_6900099925062533862_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
While it's not quite finished, it might work well enough for both tablet weaving and rigid heddle weaving with a few minor alterations. In fact, I have an idea for a temporary improvement...ooooo....<br />
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In the process of building, I had a few set backs during the build...was locked out of some areas of the wood shop...<br />
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<img height="400" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1511042_10205550438382006_8795376133968057329_n.jpg?oh=97ed96a089b8a4cd0de6c2e3ca18a99e&oe=55FC79BB" width="225" /><br />
<br />
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...but hand-held power tools were available and I made full use of them! <br />
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And on the third day...<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10920117_10205557822086594_8421884315086722053_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
...I added the front and back bars (only one pictured here, along with, for some inexplicable reason, the broken tension bar from the inkle loom). I attempted to warp up the card weaving on the loom but didn't have any luck doing so. Eventually, I gave up because the tension was not consistent. <br />
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My dear husband went to the hardware store and in about 90 minutes had fixed the tension bar for the inkle loom, so now I am back in business! It took a couple hours to re-warp the card weaving onto the loom, then had to take it apart again to adjust the tension again to accommodate the shortened length--this loom really needs TWO tension bars for card weaving.<br />
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I still have a quilt commission to finish and a bunch of uniforms to repair, but...you know... I'd rather be weaving. :)elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-6776156895556194622015-01-06T14:06:00.003-08:002015-07-20T19:03:07.850-07:00Advanced Card Weaving: Birka 12Here's another fun pattern for you history buffs! This is Birka find #12<br />
<img alt="Ткачество на дощечках - Szukaj w Google" src="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d9/a0/63/d9a06364f906a792dc40e4dffddd4f1f.jpg" /><br />
This person (Russian, if I figure it correctly) has already mapped out this pattern pretty clearly, it's just a matter of knowing how to read the thing.<br />
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Warp your cards like it shows above. Turn your cards to the AD "home" position.<br />
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Turn all the cards four quarter-turns forward, passing the shuttle between each turn.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/64731_10205494569305314_1731225475286786110_n.jpg?oh=a09d9ba0bfb0ca477d637ccb6a0f5121&oe=560759AD" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/64731_10205494569305314_1731225475286786110_n.jpg?oh=a09d9ba0bfb0ca477d637ccb6a0f5121&oe=560759AD" width="180" /></a>When you have returned to the home position, you will split the deck. Turn cards 1, 8-13 forward (away from you); 2-7 back (toward you). You will do this for <u>three</u> quarter-turns.<br />
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Then...reverse! Turn cards 1-7 forward; 8-12 back; and 13 forward. You will do this for <u>three</u> quarter-turns, back to the home position.<br />
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Repeat the pattern--four quarter-turns forward, then the split pack.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10888768_10205494571185361_4922505998347202592_n.jpg?oh=830eeae7bf0a47acdc4331640d8f940c&oe=561BD484" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10888768_10205494571185361_4922505998347202592_n.jpg?oh=830eeae7bf0a47acdc4331640d8f940c&oe=561BD484" width="180" /></a>As you can see, this means that the 1 and 13 cards are always turning forward...the rest of the cards will be turning four quarter turns forward at the end of every pattern. This results in a great deal of twist in the threads, which you will have to eventually deal with. About every yard and a half of completed weaving, I will untie the knots (one card at a time) and untwist. It's just the way this pattern works. I often will turn the 1 and 13 cards with the cards adjacent to them, which still builds up a twist, but not at twice the speed.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10408504_10205494574825452_5824144202631811284_n.jpg?oh=012b65bbc5f422809053043dee41cfa6&oe=55E28C41" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10408504_10205494574825452_5824144202631811284_n.jpg?oh=012b65bbc5f422809053043dee41cfa6&oe=55E28C41" width="180" /></a></div>
Here's mine, in progress...<br />
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And finished!<br />
<img height="225" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10924594_10205525652562376_3967315843596933752_o.jpg" width="400" />elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-84937990567444928392015-01-01T14:34:00.000-08:002015-07-20T19:11:17.658-07:00Beginning Card Weaving: Getting Started<br />
Card Weaving (aka Tablet Weaving) is an older-than-you-think weaving technique of making narrow bands or finished edging on other woven goods. It's been found in Egyptian digs and Iron Age Finnish digs--and that's a lot of geography in between!<br />
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While it would be fun to go into all the history and things, you can find all that elsewhere, like <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tablet_weaving">here</a>, and <a href="http://www.academia.edu/1488597/Hallstatt_Tablet_Weaving">here</a>, and any number of available <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_10?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=tablet+weaving&sprefix=tablet+wea%2Caps%2C169">books</a> on the market. <br />
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But I'm here to provide you with a step-by-step guide to starting your first tablet weaving project (or offer a refresher course if it's been a while). I've got two different projects going on in these photos...I apologize if this is confusing.<br />
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First you may need a quick overview of some of the weaving terms. <br />
Warp - the threads that run the length of the work--on a bolt of fabric, it would be the 15 yards' length<br />
Weft - the threads that run back and forth through the warp for the width of fabric.<br />
Cards / Tablets - same thing. Four- or six-hole cards for weaving.<br />
Shuttle - item the weft threads are wrapped around and is used for beating rows of weaving<br />
Beating - the pressing down of each pass of the shuttle to compress the threads<br />
Shed - opening between the top and bottom threads through which the shuttle passes.<br />
Turning - changing the shed with the cards by rotating 1/4 turns<br />
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The supplies are rather simple:<br />
<ul>
<li>2 to 3 colors of carpet warp or crochet cotton thread, high contrast--light, medium, dark. You can pick up crochet cotton pretty cheaply at just about any craft store. Michael's, JoAnn's, Walmart...whatever is closest to you. There are also several online options, like yarn.com, dickblick.com and greatnorthernweaving.com. </li>
<li>4-hole cards which can be purchased <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Lacis-Card-Weaving-Cards-25-Pack/dp/B0055E7B6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417813090&sr=8-1&keywords=tablet+weaving+cards">here</a>, or <a href="http://www.woolery.com/store/pc/Schacht-Card-Weaving-Cards-25-per-package-p13671.htm#.VIIckzHF98E">here</a> in packs of 25, or you can make your own <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Tablet-Weaving-Cards/">here</a>. I've seen people make them out of playing cards or cereal boxes or even bar coasters, but just be sure that the holes punched in them all line up.</li>
<li>A loom. This is the trickiest bit. Some people like to have a backstrap loom, which means you anchor it to your waist by a belt then another fixed point, like a doorknob or a railing. This rather limits mobility, especially if you can only weave for a few minutes here and there, so others prefer to use a loom. Inkle looms are popular, especially if you are also interested in inkle weaving (two-shed weaving with heddles instead of cards). </li>
</ul>
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<br />
<a href="https://img0.etsystatic.com/024/1/5202331/il_570xN.506420726_bj46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mini Inkle Loom, Tablet Weaving, Card Weaving Loom With Double Tension System - Handcrafted From Solid Maple & Red Oak - 15 Inch" border="0" height="140" src="https://img0.etsystatic.com/024/1/5202331/il_570xN.506420726_bj46.jpg" width="200" /></a><--- Some are miniature and only weave a couple yards of very narrow or delicate bands...<br />
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<a href="https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/5301824/il_570xN.210157303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Card / Inkle weaving loom - 100 percent red oak/maple/walnut/cherry 18 yard warp" border="0" height="198" src="https://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/5301824/il_570xN.210157303.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<---...others are enormous and can weave 18 yards or more of serious trim. Note that there are *two* sliding tension bars!<br />
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There are ways to create some simple loom systems that involve clamps and 2 x 4s...you'll have to do some research on the internet or Pinterest and find a loom system that will work for you. There are <a href="http://weavershand.com/twlooms.html">plans</a> to make a quick-and-dirty loom from PVC for about $10. <br />
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For a first weaving project or for testing new patterns, I would recommend starting with short lengths; try a one-yard project. If, after warping up 18 yards of a Loomzilla, you may decide that you hate the pattern and it'll take forever to take it apart and could result in yards of wasted materials. I warped up a loom for four yards of a brocade weaving project that I abandoned about 10" in. Luckily, I was able to use the thread for a 3 yard weaving project later.<br />
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If this is your first project, starting with something simple is the way to go. This is a nice one from the <a href="http://eqos.deviantart.com/gallery/23743953/Tablet-Weaving">Evil Queen of Spades</a> on DeviantArt.com (sorry it's blurry):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1-4kMwHjZRHVYW9nvYqn8OHm2po90sQXz3mdbuJROfHoX9Nw8LZTFoHzq_M9ZlWsvKSE9Za31qYN8kJ06-3qcBDpiuFstDi1vz760HSHYtjuRRw93J-gEjBpmvq6yvob3GBjISHTaAP8g/s1600/EQOS+Sed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1-4kMwHjZRHVYW9nvYqn8OHm2po90sQXz3mdbuJROfHoX9Nw8LZTFoHzq_M9ZlWsvKSE9Za31qYN8kJ06-3qcBDpiuFstDi1vz760HSHYtjuRRw93J-gEjBpmvq6yvob3GBjISHTaAP8g/s1600/EQOS+Sed.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you follow the link, you will see she's got a number of great <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=eqos+tablet+weaving&biw=802&bih=662&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=7UWCVIzRGMPxoASQwYLYAw&ved=0CB0QsAQ">patterns</a> with both 4-hole and 6-hole cards (which, for beginners, is more advanced card weaving that you don't need to get involved in yet). I have tried several of them and love the way you can make it very different just by changing colors. Most look just like this pattern above--no card or hole numbering. I'll help you bridge that gap.<br />
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I did this up on Excel, which is how I do a lot of my patterns. Some people like to use <a href="http://www.guntram.co.za/tabletweaving/gtt.htm">GTT</a> or the <a href="http://theloomybin.com/">Loomybin</a>, but I've had difficulty getting them to work for me. It's not the programs' fault--I'm just not that computer-savvy.<br />
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<img height="225" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10847603_10205197159030243_8076301279314945853_o.jpg" width="400" /><br />
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As you can see from this pattern, this one needs 12 cards. You will warp it up with the #1 card on the left, the #12 card on the right, just like reading a book. Number all your cards on the backs, 1-12 (in pencil). This will help you keep them organized.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mielkesfarm.com/images/lacis/cardweaving_lacis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.mielkesfarm.com/images/lacis/cardweaving_lacis.jpg" /></a>The front of the cards have four holes, labeled A, B, C and D. Each hole will have one string in it; four strings per card. If you look above at the pattern, each square represents one thread. On Card 2, hole A is yellow, B is yellow, C is pale blue, and D is green; that's four threads running through one card. <br />
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The next logical question is "what is S and Z under the rows?" This is the way each card is threaded. This makes the threads angle inward or outward to create a pattern. It can make a difference between a wiggly line and a fuzzy line on your band. When you thread the card, all the threads must go through the card the same way--you can't have some of them S threaded and some Z threaded. That just won't work.<br />
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As you can see from this diagram (the card is the dark line in the center), S threading has the threads going from the back of the loom through the card from left to right. Z threading goes from right to left.<br />
<img alt="Z and S Threading for tablet weaving" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/10/dd/f6/10ddf662cfcde4f4e041455eb52bc2bb.jpg" height="245" width="320" /><br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10850302_10205192836482182_6040460070916345067_n.jpg?oh=fcd4a5802360aece9141764efd1e799d&oe=561A9C5C" width="180" /> <img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10408545_10205155941119821_3385256554644394598_n.jpg?oh=abf15e1d7d22933fc48f85d8c68a2ebe&oe=5613B5E8" width="180" /></div>
So above are two pictures: the left is S threaded--the threads go from the top peg through the front of the card...the right is Z threaded--the threads go from the top peg through the back of the card.<br />
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Warping board:<br />
If you are using a warping board, you will need 18 dark strands, 20 medium strands, and 10 light strands of string. Since I use an inkle loom, I warp as I go, so I don't need to pre-cut any threads.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10860944_10205302138294659_188485999279046106_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10860944_10205302138294659_188485999279046106_o.jpg" width="320" /></a>Warping:<br />
If you are using an inkle, move your tension rod to the longest position. On my loom, because it has a switch-back, it's to the far right. (PS - the green elastic on there is to hold my shuttle during transport...this isn't an essential part of the loom.)<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/10344384_10205301676803122_2699591020204772885_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/10344384_10205301676803122_2699591020204772885_o.jpg" width="320" /></a>Lazy Kate:<br />
In order to more easily pull threads to warp your loom, you may want to construct a Lazy Kate. There are some fancy ones out there that you can buy, but I went the quick-and-dirty route by using a cardboard box and a 1/2" dowel. Punched a couple holes in the box with a pair of pointy scissors, threaded the dowel through, and boom! Lazy Kate.<br />
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With all the spools on the Lazy Kate, you can pull all colors at once, saving precious time. <br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10860887_10205302549304934_6923958930444287006_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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As I said, you will warp it up with the #1 card on the left, the #12 card on the right, and you will have the the top surface of the cards (with ABCD) facing left. If you have the cards facing right, the pattern will show up on the bottom of the weaving. Also, note that the pattern is lettered DCBA from top to bottom. If your pattern is written up as ABCD, the cards will have to face right...but that's notes for future pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/1795827_10205302283578291_7208210693483743295_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/1795827_10205302283578291_7208210693483743295_o.jpg" width="320" /></a>Tying the ends.<br />
When I warp my loom, I leave long 3" tails for each thread. I put all four threads for one card together and tie the beginning and ends in a square knot. If there is an issue with one thread being too loose or breaking, you can much more easily fix it by isolating that one card and fixing the problem. Tying them individually can also create tension problems and mean four times as many knots in the end. Remember back to your Girl Guide or Scouting days--right over left and under, left over right and under. <br />
<img src="http://img.tfd.com/mk/K/X2604-K-09.png" /><br />
Actually, I like to use a surgeon's knot, which is left over right and under twice, then right over left. This helps secure the knot and also makes untying the knots easier at the end. The warp needs to be taut, but you don't need to pull the warp super-tight. Too much tension on the warp can warp your pegs...so to speak.<br />
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Once all the cards are threaded and the tension looks even, it's time to begin!<br />
<img height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10860887_10205302549304934_6923958930444287006_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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Notes on shuttles.<br />
Shuttles can be just about anything you want to use. I've used wooden rulers to hand-carved shuttles by masters of the craft. As long as it's rigid, does the job, and is comfortable for your hands, it's all good. Bonus: wooden rulers can be found for under a buck.<br />
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Wind several yards of weft threads (that's the name for the thread that goes from side to side--or from wight to weft...as I say...) onto your shuttle. Generally speaking, you will want to use the same color thread as the threads on the #1 and #12 cards (or whichever is the last card on the right). This will help blend the weft into the edges so any little mistakes in tension won't be glaringly obvious.<br />
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Turning the cards. <br />
For this pattern, all the cards will turn 1/4 turn in the same direction. After four quarter-turns, you will reverse the direction and weave in the opposite direction.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10885333_10205339225941827_1350051177397065315_n.jpg?oh=68c64f0ed5a4dfb36b8dee68f72fe646&oe=560A92F0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10885333_10205339225941827_1350051177397065315_n.jpg?oh=68c64f0ed5a4dfb36b8dee68f72fe646&oe=560A92F0" width="180" /></a>As you can see in this image, I have colored one edge of the cards with a red permanent marker--this is the BC side. On the opposite side, the AD side, I have colored the edges blue. This helps you make sure you know where you are during the weaving process. The blue edge, when A and D are on the top, is the "home" position for many patterns. You can, of course, reverse directions at any time, but if you are going for a repeating pattern, knowing the home position is important.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/t31.0-8/10620076_10205339226341837_6371507030780935025_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/t31.0-8/10620076_10205339226341837_6371507030780935025_o.jpg" width="320" /></a>Pass the shuttle through the shed (the opening between the upper and lower threads), and pull the thread down towards the knots on your warp. Turn all the cards 1/4 turn and pass the shuttle again. Press down--beat--with your shuttle. <br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10408511_10205192826841941_5648467142028915638_n.jpg?oh=24caeea2196651e8b946bfab91d610d9&oe=5658997E" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10408511_10205192826841941_5648467142028915638_n.jpg?oh=24caeea2196651e8b946bfab91d610d9&oe=5658997E" width="180" /></a>You'll note that there's a little loop on the right side--this is left back to help maintain good tension. You don't want to get wobbly edges, so when you weave follow these steps:<br />
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* Pass the shuttle, leaving a loop behind<br />
* Turn the cards<br />
* Beat<br />
* Pull the weft thread to incorporate loop<br />
* Then repeat!<br />
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After a time, it becomes rather meditative. elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-45811401694047683392015-01-01T13:47:00.000-08:002015-04-21T12:25:19.664-07:00Advanced Card Weaving: Birka 6: the Kivrim BandI've been working on an "Introduction to Card Weaving" post, but ran into some technical difficulties Several hours into creation, the computer shut down, and inexplicably, the post was not saved, despite my having clicked on the "Save" button numerous times throughout the process. I have no idea what happened, but it was a significant set back. Images gone. Text gone. My mini glossary gone. In many ways, it was almost back to the first outline I created. Seriously frustrating. Hopefully I can get that back up to where it was and get it posted soon.<br />
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In the meantime, I will post a quick lesson on Advanced Card Weaving. There are many different Kivrim patterns which apparently means "Bent" (although Google Translate doesn't have the word in its dictionary for any language). This is a split-pack weaving technique, which means that the cards will be turning in different directions, singly or in groups. Proper threading and turning will result in some stunning patterns! You can find several different varieties on the <a href="http://www.theloomybin.com/cw/kivrim.html">Loomy Bin</a>, including the Egyptian Diagonals patterns.<br />
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This was a great lesson for me to learn how to read patterns that have no instructions--that is, those that have slashes in the boxes that change from left-leaning to right-leaning; from slash to back-slash. I had never done such a thing before, so I feel like I made a huge leap forward in my tablet-weaving journey.<br />
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Here's an example of one of those patterns...<br />
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<img alt="Muster zum Brettchenweben: Diagonalmuster - Kivrim" src="http://www.steinmaus.de/Mittelalter/weben/muster/diagonalen/kivrim/pattern05.gif" /><br />
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Looks confusing, doesn't it? Well, my brain doesn't like looking at it. I prefer to have it written out, which can take some time doing the translation. I had the same issue when I was learning to knit, so perhaps in time, I will be able to look at this kind of pattern and untangle it in my head, but for now...it's long hand. <br />
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The pattern I decided on was Birka 6, one of several card woven bands found at Birka, a former trade site in Sweden which uncovered a great number of artifacts in an archaeological dig.<br />
<img alt="Birka 6" src="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/1e/ba/12/1eba12538fab6990479ebdfc9a205564.jpg" /><br />
The bottom four rows are, of course, the threading diagram. The cards are threaded DCBA, so face those cards left! I chose two colors, a dark burgundy red and pale yellow for my project.<br />
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Looking at the diagram, you will see the first six cards are Z threaded, and the last five are S threaded. Here's a great diagram to remember how Z and S threading works:<br />
<img alt="Z and S Threading for tablet weaving" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/10/dd/f6/10ddf662cfcde4f4e041455eb52bc2bb.jpg" height="245" width="320" /><br />
If you're weaving along with me, go ahead and get out your thread, your cards, your loom, and warp up your cards! I'll just go make a cuppa and meet you back here....<br />
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Ready? Great!<br />
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Through experimentation, I discovered that you start this pattern with the AD position on top. For the first four quarter-turns, you turn the cards away from you, which will form the V formation as you see in the threading diagram. We'll call this motion "Forward" (since it appears to be the industry standard, although it feels backward in my mind...). This first few rows will, of course, look sloppy and messy...as an experienced weaver, you know it always does at the beginning!<br />
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The next phase is looking at the boxes where the slashes change direction--that indicates a reverse in the card direction. The author of this image made dark lines every two rows, which conveniently points out that the pattern of card-turning changes every two rows. You will turn the cards two quarter turns, passing the shuttle for every quarter-turn, then adjust your cards for the next two rows.<br />
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Here is what I charted out (and you'll forgive me for not following the pattern exactly and changing directions of the first and last cards on the selvage--I never liked the idea of two cards constantly twisting up in one direction while the others moved forward and back equally. It does make the edges a little more rough, so if you want smooth edges, turn them only forward and you can always reverse to only backwards after a while.) These directions are written so each "turn" is a quarter-turn of the cards, and the shuttle is thrown every quarter-turn. <br />
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A) Turns 1-4: turn all forward<br />
B) Turns 5-6: 1-6 Forward; 7-8 Back; 9-11 Forward<br />
C) Turns 7-8: All Back<br />
D) Turns 9-10: 1-6 Back, 7-8 Forward; 9-11 Back<br />
E) Turns 11-12: 1-3 Forward; 4-6 Back; 7-11 Forward<br />
F) Turns 13-14: 1-5 Forward; 6 Back; 7-11 Forward<br />
G) Turns 15-16: 1-3 Back; 4-6 Forward; 7-11 Back<br />
H) Turns 17-18: 1-5 Back; 6 Forward; 7-11 Back<br />
I) Turns 19-20: All Back<br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/10900126_10205413612641448_1451193209272582857_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
<i>If you are doing the edges all one direction, the directions are:</i><br />
<i>A) Turns 1-4: turn all forward</i><br />
<i>B) Turns 5-6: 1-6 Forward; 7-8 Back; 9-11 Forward</i><br />
<i>C) Turns 7-8: 1 Forward; 2-10 Back; 11 Forward</i><br />
<i>D) Turns 9-10: 1 Forward; 2-6 Back, 7-8 Forward; 9-10 Back; 11 Forward</i><br />
<i>E) Turns 11-12: 1-3 Forward; 4-6 Back; 7-11 Forward</i><br />
<i>F) Turns 13-14: 1-5 Forward; 6 Back; 7-11 Forward</i><br />
<i>G) Turns 15-16: 1 Forward; 2-3 Back; 4-6 Forward; 7-10 Back; 11 Forward</i><br />
<i>H) Turns 17-18: 1 Forward; 2-5 Back; 6 Forward; 7-10 Back; 11 Forward</i><br />
<i>I) Turns 19-20: 1 Forward; 2-10 Back; 11 Forward</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>When the cards have twisted too far in one direction and it starts to affect your tension, reverse the cards 1 and 11 to Back, which will untwist them. When they are twisted too far in the opposite direction, start turning forward again.</i><br />
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Here's the finished piece! It's only 5' 6" (not quite 2 feet), but since it was a test piece, I didn't want to make a full-length 4-yard piece if I didn't find it fun or workable. <br />
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I hope these instructions help you to make your own Birka band. Good luck! I hope to see lots more period pieces made and displayed on garb at upcoming events!elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-20318425492524089072014-12-22T11:24:00.000-08:002015-01-05T21:03:15.127-08:00End of Year Goal Report Card<div style="font-family: Vollkorn; font-size: 16.3636360168457px; line-height: 20.3636360168457px;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Just under 12 months ago, I made a list of challenges for 2014. How'd I do this year?</span></div>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Completing a Scholar Rank Costumer's Guild challenge. Tudor woman and Viking man</span></li>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Nope. I gathered a few resources and made some plans, but didn't actually start any costuming projects this year except for a coif pattern for my head. While this doesn't seem like much, it's something. Grade: C</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Have the Aquaterra Costumer's Guild to fill in to promote and administer challenges, and maybe even host costumer gatherings at Kingdom events. </span></li>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Talked to them, but nothing was actually done. It didn't help that the Costumer's Guild officer had a baby this year, so many things were put on the back burner. Grade: C</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16.3636360168457px; line-height: 1.4;">Build a loom based on a pattern I bought several years ago. It doesn't have to be perfect, just usable. I already have a rigid heddle meant to be used with this pattern...I just need the frame.</span></li>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16.3636360168457px; line-height: 1.4;">I looked at the plans, but didn't get any further than that. I keep hoping that my husband will decide to make it for me. Grade: F</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Sheep to shawl project. </span></li>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">OK...I got a fleece, washed a bunch of it, and started spinning! I got one spool done and then stalled on that project. Grade: B</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Make cheese. </span></li>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Dear Husband got me a cheesemaking kit. I opened it up and looked at the contents. Grade: D</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Make rush lights. </span></li>
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<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Maybe in 2015. I will need to get some sheep fat (buy some lamb and extract the fact from the cooking process) and find some rushes. I've seen them growing here and there, so just sourcing them may take a bit of time...maybe at one of the local parks with swampy waters nearby. Grade: F</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Teach more.</span></li>
<ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">I taught a couple of short classes through the A&S social meetings, and taught a couple classes at an Ithra in the Three Mountains area (which I didn't blog about, apparently). Grade: B</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Prepare for a 12th Night display in the A&S room, and *maybe* a single entry in Kingdom A&S. </span></li>
<ul>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0.25em 0px;"><span style="background-color: white;">I decided not to do a 12th Night entry this year. The amount of time to prepare for such a venture was totally out of my ability to take on this year, and in July I found out that all the hotels were already sold out in the area. It's rather remote and day-tripping from a friend's house is too far. I will put it on the back burner for 2016. Grade: D</span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div style="font-family: Vollkorn; font-size: 16.3636360168457px;">
<span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Overall, I'd say that I've gotten about a C this year for projects. However, I did a lot of extra credit, including some beadmaking and tablet weaving, so I think I could easily say that my overall grade is higher--maybe a B+. I'll take it. :)</span></div>
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<div style="font-family: Vollkorn; font-size: 16.3636360168457px;">
<span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">So what's on the docket for 2015? Here are my newest goals, some of which are review from 2014:</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Scholar Rank Viking Costume for men. Maybe I'll use my middle kid as the recipient for the garb since my husband is not really interested in playing...even though the middle kid is a girl...she wants to do activities that require pants and shorter tunics. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Loom building (box loom and rigid heddle loom)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Warp Weighted Loom--weave something! I have it mostly warped up, but it needs weights and yarn for the weft. I was considering buying a bunch of the Fisherman's Yarn and dyeing it with KoolAid, just for fun.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Sheep to Shawl progress </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Keep teaching. I have a student who said, "I want to learn how to do everything you're doing." I may not be the expert, but I'm happy to brain-dump.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Cheesemaking. Start with the kit, then move on to other cheeses.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Dye with natural dyes - woad, sandalwood. I have a big spool of linen threads around here that I can use to dye stuff with. I'd love to grow the woad myself, but I guess it's illegal in this state. :(</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Tablet weaving - Birka reproductions</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Decorate yurt door with Turkish designs</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">Replace and repair and enhance old pieces from my wardrobe.</span></span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Vollkorn;"><span style="line-height: 18.3272724151611px;">That's 10 things. That aughta hold me for now...right? Then I'll "ooo-shiny!" and start a project not on this list. Like stained glass or something.</span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-74378267196709569442014-12-19T17:43:00.002-08:002015-07-20T19:15:12.051-07:00Lazy Kate for ElewysFrustrated with spools of thread bouncing all over the place or having to keep the spools in bowls that inevitably tip over, I decided to make myself a cheap Lazy Kate. At first, I looked at the scrap lumber I had sitting around and wondered if I could find a drill bit, and where I would find the nails, and setting up the table saw to cut things....and then decided to make it a bit simpler.<br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/1149491_10205301677523140_6375580912108282480_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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Here's what I did...<br />
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Found a box in the garage from our most recent shipment of medical supplies. We get a good half-dozen of these a month, so there's no shortage here, in a variety of sizes and shapes. I picked a smallish one.<br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10714115_10205301678523165_6765658882907788244_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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I found a 1/2" dowel in the wood shop, just the right size to fit through the center of the spools of carpet warp.<br />
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Poked a hole about 2 inches down from the top edge of the box large enough to fit the dowel in.<br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10389557_10205301678083154_6907811915660581856_n.jpg?oh=6de2b5484416a4f3d7fa6d77a5841fbe&oe=560E17CF" width="180" /><br />
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Threaded the dowel through and eyeballed it so it was relatively straight and level, and pressed down on the cardboard on the opposite side of the box.<br />
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10858579_10205301678043153_649272640234136711_n.jpg?oh=366ced75957e85d3d45bd4db0c428f78&oe=561160A6" width="180" /><br />
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Used the scissors to make the hole on the other side, and threaded the dowel through.<br />
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Mounted the spools onto the rod, which greatly increased the speed at which I could warp my loom! <br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/10344384_10205301676803122_2699591020204772885_o.jpg" width="320" />elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-91993507128427683602014-12-05T11:00:00.001-08:002015-07-23T22:50:05.376-07:00Advanced Card Weaving: Ram's Horn PatternI've been watching a card weaving Facebook page and several people have asked about how to do the Ram's Horn pattern. It's not a beginner's pattern, for sure, but with an understanding of how the cards are set up and turning patterns of the cards, you, too, should be able to produce a lovely woven Ram's Horn band. Sounds easy enough, right? Don't worry--go step by step, and you'll have this one by the horns! <br />
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<i>Now, it should be noted, for those who are big into the recreationist groups like the SCA, this is not a period piece. Historically, the only mention I can find is from a web site that reads: "The Ram's Horns pattern popularlized by Crockett's "Card Weaving" book comes from the 20th century Anatolian (turkish) belts and it has not equivalent in archeological finds." <span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, 'lucida grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> http://weavedmagic.deviantart.com/journal/Origins-of-most-popular-tablet-weaving-patterns-394709084</span></i><br />
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So let's get to the full color demonstration of this pattern! READY?<br />
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If you're not sure if you're going to like it, or if you suspect you might get frustrated from trying and pitch it across the room, you may want to try a short piece first. Don't warp up the loomzilla for this first project. When I first tried this pattern, I did one-yard lengths for each thread, just to test it out. I ended up getting about a foot done before I knew I needed to do a larger piece!<br />
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Supplies needed: <br />
<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/r90/11742735_10206967343483748_8664426562746169453_n.jpg?oh=e66dc8d7448ed292c2eee4be6e2e271b&oe=56496256" width="180" /><br />
<ul>
<li>3 colors of carpet warp or crochet cotton thread--I used <a href="http://www.yarn.com/product/webs-weaving-yarns-maysville-84-cotton-carpet-warp/">Maysville 8/4 Carpet Warp</a>. It's good stuff, heavy duty and will make great belts, bag straps, and heavy trim (it's not delicate and as flexible as finer threads, but a great place to start).</li>
<li>22 cards--mine are the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Lacis-Card-Weaving-Cards-25-Pack/dp/B0055E7B6W">store-bought 3" cards</a> with ABCD labeled in clockwise order</li>
<li>1 loom--I use an inkle loom that weaves up to 4 yards of trim</li>
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When choosing the thread, you will need a light color, a medium color, and a dark color. High contrast is important in this pattern!<br />
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You will warp it up with the #1 card on the left; #22 card on the right, reading the pattern just like reading a book. The next thing to note is that, for this pattern, you should have the top surface of the cards facing *left*. If you have the cards facing right, the pattern will show up on the bottom side of the weaving. Also, and the pattern (below) has the rows lettered backwards--D, C, B, A. (If they were lettered A, B, C, D, you would have to face your cards to the right--good tip to note for when you find future patterns!)<br />
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This is the pattern for the dreaded Ram's Horn pattern.<br />
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<img height="180" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/10713977_10205193365735413_6423793529925307306_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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Just a refresher: Each column in the pattern is marked with S or Z. Some patterns will be marked with \ for S or / for Z, but since this font doesn't have a significant slant, it can look a bit more confusing, so I've used the letters instead. Many new weavers get confused about how to do S and Z threading. This is one of the best diagrams I've found to remind yourself how the threads go through the cards. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBaUiN5Unu_8bW2zkp3zSzyMB_Go2vAnHNrNyfrb__6TJ0VMvbl5PAffS-3xF-Ay1RWZI39FNwXlcGTrOyK2pJGmIZS2Qctm5X8WXgfdoGgu1fe6h8OmhyhU3TO17dxpsfK_0hfxFF0T9L/s1600/S+and+Z+threading.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBaUiN5Unu_8bW2zkp3zSzyMB_Go2vAnHNrNyfrb__6TJ0VMvbl5PAffS-3xF-Ay1RWZI39FNwXlcGTrOyK2pJGmIZS2Qctm5X8WXgfdoGgu1fe6h8OmhyhU3TO17dxpsfK_0hfxFF0T9L/s1600/S+and+Z+threading.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you've got the pattern, the threads, the cards, and a refresher on S and Z threading. Go ahead and thread up your loom...I'll wait. (I often put in a movie that I've seen a dozen times so I have something to listen to while I work.)</div>
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[dooo-do-dooooo...deee-daaah-dee....]</div>
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OK. Now your loom is threaded and you have a shuttle loaded (I recommend using the same color as the thread on the border--in this case, a dark red--to make it blend in, but some people like to make it stand out as an added pattern on the edge. Your choice!) Ready to start? </div>
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The pattern alternates between the cards moving together, as a pack, for four quarter-turns, and then some of the cards turning in opposite directions for four quarter-turns. </div>
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<img height="320" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10850302_10205192836482182_6040460070916345067_n.jpg?oh=be385f30a736351c94ba7afda90e0acb&oe=55A3F55C&__gda__=1439701322_8e4d79fe0814af34fd8578948a22df2e" width="180" /><br />
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To begin the pattern, turn all the cards so it has A & D at the top, like the image above. This is the "home" position. To better keep track of this, I have colored the AD side of the card <span style="color: blue;">blue</span> with a permanent marker (the opposite side, the BC side, is colored <span style="color: #cc0000;">red</span>--I'm big on visual cues!). Throw your shuttle and turn the cards one quarter-turn toward you. Do this for four quarter-turns away from you, then for four quarter-turns forward (toward you), throwing the shuttle after each quarter-turn, just to anchor everything together and adjust your tension. <br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10846512_10205192825041896_2426797876374144876_n.jpg?oh=4a2fe72d30a030f3b2650af77e9fba7e&oe=55E2594F" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10846512_10205192825041896_2426797876374144876_n.jpg?oh=4a2fe72d30a030f3b2650af77e9fba7e&oe=55E2594F" width="180" /></a></div>
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Then you can start splitting the deck! The cards now will turn in groups in opposite directions for four quarter-turns. First separate the cards into groups. Slide the cards 1 & 2 toward you, 3-5 away from you, 6 & 7 toward, 8-15 away, 16-17 toward, 18-20 away, 21-22 toward. See the picture above? That's how it should look.</div>
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Now the cards will turn in the direction that they have been placed. The cards closest to you will turn towards you; the ones further away will turn away. Turn all cards a quarter-turn and throw the shuttle. Turn another quarter-turn and all the cards will have the red side facing up. Throw the shuttle. Make two more quarter-turns, continuing in the opposite directions, throwing the shuttle between, until the cards are back to the home position again.</div>
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Once at the home position, all the cards will turn together for four quarter-turns. Since the first two cards were turning *forward* in the last round, all the cards will turn *forward* in this round. Turn toward you for four quarter-turns, throwing the shuttle between each quarter-turn.</div>
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Then, back to the split deck. Repeat and you will see the ram's horns appear! Yes, you will see a dimple after each repeat. Don't panic! When you switch directions, a tiny hole appears in the middle and the weft shows through. If you don't want the dimple, you can change your weft thread to match the middle, but then it'll show on the border, unless you also change the border color to match.</div>
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<img height="320" src="https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10805844_10205195729114496_3659374436773625102_n.jpg?oh=820e7f0b56d3a52cb1e2c58cb0bd9f85&oe=560F1C6B" width="180" /></div>
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So, in brief, here's the turning directions:<br />
1. Turn all the cards four quarter-turns FORWARD, throwing the shuttle between each quarter turn. End in the home position.<br />
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2. Slide cards 1-2 forward, 3-5 back, 6-7 forward, 8-15 back, 16-17 forward, 18-20 back, 21-22 forward. Turn cards 1/4 turn in opposite directions (forward cards forward; backward cards back). End in home position.<br />
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Repeat steps one and two to your heart's content!<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10407873_10205195725314401_7329935428505915631_n.jpg?oh=9543b3eb9660d1480217016a3f6ac381&oe=55E30EFE" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10407873_10205195725314401_7329935428505915631_n.jpg?oh=9543b3eb9660d1480217016a3f6ac381&oe=55E30EFE" width="180" /></a>The observant weaver will note that since some of the threads are always turning forward and the rest turn forward four and backward four, that some of the threads are going to build up a great twist in it. This will shorten the warp length for those threads, but not the rest, causing tension issues. Some people have tried (with varying success) to use fishing spinners that will untwist the threads as you go. This is great if you're doing backstrap weaving or have a long span that your warp is spread out, but I use this inkle loom and the twist builds up between the cards and the first or second peg and stops there. You *can* move the twist down the entire length, around each of the pegs to get the spinners to untwist, but it's time-consuming and can be frustrating.<br />
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The other thing you can do is carefully untie the threads that are twisted, untwist them, and re-tie...it's time-consuming and can be frustrating. I've done it...a couple times. <br />
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<a href="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/10846232_10205192926844441_7089768396052144775_n.jpg?oh=edf06dfb3643a446d91f7d5dbe26ad6d&oe=55D89AB1" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/10846232_10205192926844441_7089768396052144775_n.jpg?oh=edf06dfb3643a446d91f7d5dbe26ad6d&oe=55D89AB1" width="180" /></a>But the other option is to change directions to untwist every few repeats. You could do every horn, every two horns, six horns, eight horns...whatever you desire. The question is, at what point in the pattern do you change directions?<br />
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In this pattern you were repeating steps 1 and 2, now you have to take steps 3 and 4 to go the opposite direction!<br />
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3. Slide cards 1-2 back, 3-5 forward, 6-7 back, 8-15 forward, 16-17 back, 18-20 forward, 21-22 back. Turn cards 1/4 turn in opposite directions (forward cards forward; backward cards back). End in home position.<br />
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4. Turn all cards for four quarter-turns back. End in home position.<br />
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You will repeat this pair of steps until the twist builds up in the opposite direction. Then you'll change directions again, finishing step 4, then going back to step 1 and 2.<br />
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Now you can weave your Ram's Horns and show your Advanced Card Weaving skills to all your friends!<br />
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Good luck!<br />
Elewys of Finchingefeld, GdS, JdL<br />
Barony of Aquaterra, Kingdom of An Tirelewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-86111730647639669752014-06-25T18:46:00.000-07:002014-06-25T18:46:17.016-07:00Sheep to Shawl: Phase I<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 30px; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px; line-height: 1.5;">I have started to make some progress on my Sheep to Shawl project, turning raw fleece into a wearable garment. I started some months ago by getting a bag of raw fleece from my friend, Godith of Goosefoot Mead. She used to raise sheep up in Shittimwoode, a few miles from where I used to live, and entered the fleeces into the local fair and won ribbons for its quality.</span></h3>
<div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-5246193907880665170" itemprop="description articleBody" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px; line-height: 1.5; position: relative; width: 518.6666870117188px;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><a href="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10382420_10203998909914764_4401909428797574689_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10382420_10203998909914764_4401909428797574689_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></span></a><span style="background-color: white;">This is from a sheep named Sprite from the sheering about 8 years ago. She's been holding onto several fleeces for all these years and was happy to give it a new home for this endeavor. Thanks, Godith!!<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/1512253_10203999325725159_1443026396685274086_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/1512253_10203999325725159_1443026396685274086_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Sprite was a Romney-Border Leicester cross and she grew some really nice long-staple locks. When cleaned, it's just lovely, isn't it?<br /><br /><br />However, before it got to this lovely, white color, the fibers had to be cleaned. This is the gross part. It's full of burrs, grass, hay, and...yes...poop. Mostly the poop is just on the edges of the fleece--the belly and bum--but the rest of the fleece is oily and dirty. The oil is lanolin, which is the stuff they put into lotions and things, so working with this stuff will certainly keep your hands soft!<br /><br />There are a few different techniques for washing fleece. Some say use screaming-hot water (140-160 degrees F) and lots of soap (a cup of dish soap per fleece). Others say lukewarm water and a couple ounces of soap are just fine. I tried a few different techniques to see what worked best with this fleece.<br /><br />The thing to avoid is turning your fleece into felt. To make felt from wool you need three things: water, heat, and agitation. Swooshing the fibers around in screaming-hot water is the recipe for woolly disaster. Some fleeces will felt as soon as you grab the kettle...others will withstand all kinds of abuse without felting. The trick is to figure out what you can do without turning your lovely fleece into a nasty mess.<br /></span><a href="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t1.0-9/10426878_10203998909514754_2752970928631429781_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t1.0-9/10426878_10203998909514754_2752970928631429781_n.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="180" /></span></a><span style="background-color: white;">So first you run some water into your wash basin (sink, bucket, pot...whatever you want to use) and put some soap into the water. You put the soap in <u>after</u> the water is run--you don't want suds, you just want the soap in the water, and gently swish it around. Take a couple handfuls of the dirty fiber--you only want to wash a few ounces at a time--and pull the visible grass, burrs and poo from the fiber.<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10453065_10203998907994716_6293789302046968899_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10453065_10203998907994716_6293789302046968899_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Place the fiber into the water, and press down gently. Don't stir or agitate--just make sure it all gets wet. Wait 10 minutes while the oils and dirt come off the hair. Yeah, the water will look gross. It will be an amazing change from the yellow stuff you put in to what you pull out, even after the first soak.<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10505168_10203998906594681_3409598167639813197_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10505168_10203998906594681_3409598167639813197_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Carefully pull the fiber out and let the water drain out of the wool. Pull the plug on the sink, and refill with water--same temperature as before. If you put hot wool into cold water or vice versa, the temperature change can cause it to felt. Poof! Ruined wool. Add more soap, repeat process.<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10354232_10203998905394651_7092015740025949032_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10354232_10203998905394651_7092015740025949032_n.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="180" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">You can repeat the process a couple more times, washing and rinsing the hairs, pulling any grass or seeds you find as you go. I pinched or rubbed some of the tips to get some of the gross color out of the hairs, but it didn't all come out (the darkest bits in the lower right of this picture went back into the bath for a bit more washing). When you're satisfied, lay it out on towels or a sheet to air dry in the shade.<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10468031_10203998904474628_5550469508121563084_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10468031_10203998904474628_5550469508121563084_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Once dry, you can comb out the fibers to get it ready for spinning. I don't have wool carders, which start at $50 and go up from there. I opted, instead, to buy a small $7 cat/dog brush to use to comb out the fibers...see how that works. I heard that it works, so I thought I'd give that a try first. So far it seems to be going OK!<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10320979_10203999280044017_4589759806770022293_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10320979_10203999280044017_4589759806770022293_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">So now I have a pile of fluffy white stuff, ready to spin!<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10433793_10203999662253572_1361362273496750282_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993322; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10433793_10203999662253572_1361362273496750282_n.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="180" /></span></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Heide has entrusted me with her amazing spinning wheel, which I will hopefully be able to figure out how to use. I got a very quick tutorial last weekend and hoped enough of it stuck to be able to make some fluffy stuff into string.<br /><br />Success!<br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><img height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10497833_10204000034182870_86841270909966199_o.jpg" style="-webkit-box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.498039) 1px 1px 5px; line-height: 13.523999214172363px; padding: 8px;" width="320" /></span></div>
elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-54189616360486479492014-03-10T23:45:00.004-07:002014-03-11T13:07:38.177-07:00Beads and Weaving UpdateI've made a bunch of beads lately. This set of 10 (11) were made for my dear friend, Heide, who wanted to make bracelets for her sister and mom. Heide grew up on a cranberry farm near Aberdeen, so when she saw the first bead I made, she said "CRANBERRIES!" and commissioned 10. I was happy to make them for her and threw in the 11th bead free! OK, technically it was the first bead, and it wasn't the prettiest, but she loves them anyway.<br />
<img alt="Portrait: Reasons to be thankful... 1. Nobody was hurt in the wreck today. 2. The accident was NOT my fault and knowing I did everything possible, and had I not locked up the brakes and turned the wheel it could have ended badly. 3. My parents surprised us by showing up early. They didn't stay long though, as they were on their way to White Salmon to stay with my Aunt Kathy and Uncle Wayne Stone. 4. They brought the girls about 50 pounds of fabric for costuming and so they could learn how to sew (that is a piece of linen from the lot under the beads in this picture). 5. The beads! These are special beads I commissioned from Karen that feature cranberries and cranberry vines. 6. Brian cooked a lovely dinner tonight. 7. We are home, safe and cozy for the evening." height="320" src="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31/p600x600/1781522_10202917301826212_1178484440_o.jpg" width="240" /><br />
Then I was messing around with different colors and techniques, tools, and trying out some stuff with clear glass. I don't particularly care for working with the clear stuff--it seems to need a lot more heat and takes longer to melt. <br />
<img height="320" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1508994_10203188235048399_1779709620_n.jpg" width="180" /> <img height="320" src="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/t1/1922041_10203188233728366_1646721633_n.jpg" width="180" /> This one I call the Diversity Bead. :)<br />
<img alt="Portrait: Experimenting with color combinations. .. Then doing a tried-and-true red, white and black combo." height="179" src="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t31/p843x403/1978323_10203183406367685_148130390_o.jpg" width="320" /> <img height="320" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1925204_10203147610832819_348698572_n.jpg" width="180" /> <img height="320" src="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1911872_10203143458969025_1602378796_n.jpg" width="180" /> <img height="180" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31/1939678_10203143208202756_2080874684_o.jpg" width="320" /> <img height="180" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t31/1606470_10203119849858812_676907469_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
<img height="320" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t1/1959578_10203111417928019_1635345093_n.jpg" width="180" /><br />
I love the chemical reaction I had with these two colors--I need to get more turquoise.<br />
<img height="180" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31/1655344_10203107671114351_1285705537_o.jpg" width="320" /> <img height="180" src="https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31/1800169_10202998505105269_604589500_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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<a href="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1451940_10202977821468191_483872415_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1451940_10202977821468191_483872415_n.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31/1889054_10202966742871233_2024949189_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><br />
I finally got the weave done--it's so lovely! I don't know what I'm going to do with it...although I think it'll end up on an apron dress.<br />
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Since the loom was now free...I warped up some yarn on the inkle loom to make the band for Frigga the Loom. I'm thinking I need to get it on the rail and start attempting to weave. I need to figure out where to set it up in the house--probably the front room, but I need to rearrange some furniture first.<br />
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A few weeks ago, I was greatly anticipating entering Kingdom Arts & Sciences in 2015 with my warp-weighted loom--something I had never seen anyone work with in An Tir. Last weekend was the Kingdom event and I started eagerly looking at some of the entries that starting appearing on Facebook. I was a little discouraged to see an entry this year that included...yes, a warp-weighted loom. My first reaction was "dang it! I wanted to be first!" Then it was, "Now it's going to look like I'm copying." It was, admittedly, a little disheartening. Now, the loom she used was for card weaving, not for fabric, but still, I felt like someone had stolen my master plan and built it faster and presented it. I had a nice chat with my Foster Laurel (whose identity shall remain a mystery for now)...she has been a great sounding board when I have questions or get discouraged on my Artisan Journey (let's not say Laurel Track...who the hell knows where this journey will end?). I relied on her greatly when I had a personal issue with another member, when I had frustrations with a judging panel, and yesterday, when I was stung by the surprise of someone else doing stuff with the loom. <br />
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After she talked me down off the ledge, and I had a night to sleep on it, I realized that my journey and her journey may cross paths, but we are on different journeys. Hers was to do card weaving on a warp-weighted loom; and mine is to make a sheep to shawl project. I even have the sheep!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdS_T6K5FdrNMmOiZnI-_cuGHfCU9x3y4ID85FrftWLCsmU-4Ck4xCr_NyZk4YQMkE30zkC4MWVnkINaaWBN_V4b9zYIJbcKxKjjLEj_0zhRuDslbFpZHLx3taAQbpgrutgF1mRL1igBeB/s1600/Sprie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdS_T6K5FdrNMmOiZnI-_cuGHfCU9x3y4ID85FrftWLCsmU-4Ck4xCr_NyZk4YQMkE30zkC4MWVnkINaaWBN_V4b9zYIJbcKxKjjLEj_0zhRuDslbFpZHLx3taAQbpgrutgF1mRL1igBeB/s1600/Sprie.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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Many thanks to HL Godith of Goosefoot Mead for providing this bag of goodness! This award-winning fleece needs to be washed, carded and spun and will -- hopefully -- be a finished garment someday. </div>
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Away to bed...long day tomorrow! I have two quilts to finish for other people, and on Friday, I get to pick up two more. In the meantime, I have 7 to do for myself. Gaaaaahhh!<br />
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G'nite.elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3150356828782609213.post-81688371024979542402014-02-01T15:39:00.000-08:002015-09-24T20:17:42.436-07:00Loom Day Two: Frigga lives!Made some progress on the loom, which may seem like little things, but it took some ingenuity to engineer it to work the way I need it to...still need to make some adjustments, as you will see.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDUW4XRyZR9eOrQVUVRnflhLIhM35eC7dfUXu7tpVvDow0ZLI-pWd8wWPSuf0nngwxPp9HyDlbyyrD8vNbpHJuh2zNYIEKKCU5VLQF_p0Pwl0D375M0QCCnUVoyPNn3cMffDl8ZRjczz3h/s1600/Frigga+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDUW4XRyZR9eOrQVUVRnflhLIhM35eC7dfUXu7tpVvDow0ZLI-pWd8wWPSuf0nngwxPp9HyDlbyyrD8vNbpHJuh2zNYIEKKCU5VLQF_p0Pwl0D375M0QCCnUVoyPNn3cMffDl8ZRjczz3h/s320/Frigga+6.jpg" width="180" /></a>Here the crotches are screwed onto the uprights. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgClyMef-oPDtV7yBCObTeaL7lrUXfaG8NGKYpgubrNh-s9T_Zd1oTx-M6gWH4-8JRpQwyXMaKU5iBWX4xXQQvQV7i1Xa5obl9pzu76ApIxjYp-KA2aeioIVk2_pH5nB_zAVp197JHPm_x/s1600/Frigga+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgClyMef-oPDtV7yBCObTeaL7lrUXfaG8NGKYpgubrNh-s9T_Zd1oTx-M6gWH4-8JRpQwyXMaKU5iBWX4xXQQvQV7i1Xa5obl9pzu76ApIxjYp-KA2aeioIVk2_pH5nB_zAVp197JHPm_x/s320/Frigga+2.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-4ymGIuU_58Kg3fNo4EdaGe9n6S0dUS3rl2sDQK9pIUeOeRPhx4t8l8N2X6FWJv0g0nD07rJBiVzC57NJZP2gkKVFFcgKJmbr8hLyd43kWPkhYNtYxwcioaGUavohGrLEqhbCxFFu4rD/s1600/Frigga+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-4ymGIuU_58Kg3fNo4EdaGe9n6S0dUS3rl2sDQK9pIUeOeRPhx4t8l8N2X6FWJv0g0nD07rJBiVzC57NJZP2gkKVFFcgKJmbr8hLyd43kWPkhYNtYxwcioaGUavohGrLEqhbCxFFu4rD/s320/Frigga+4.jpg" width="180" /></a>This is my first go at the heddle support rods. I needed to adjust the shape of the Y where the heddle rod will rest--the first attempt, the heddle rod will barely stay in place, but one nudge and it'll fall. I looked at a couple looms and came up with an improved shape. Now the heddle rests comfortably on there--no risk of falling off.<br />
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Here it is set up! I knew it needed just a couple more minor changes before it is ready to warp!<br />
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I found (again) and started watching the Sami/Norwegian <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ia82dD7RQqw#t=313">video</a> of a woman who was demonstrating how to set up the loom, starting with a woven band with weft threads that become the warp threads of a woven piece. I have a bunch of Fisherman's wool that was given to me recently and this will be a great project to use that yarn. I think I'd like to try this...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-nJ5X5zUxCWsjbn0031KL0y3k0Zd95OKNs0mjwdmTJ9TVJenZNI8mA6aOpCWKrDQkE4jHaowg0FTOXGo6hrcY-u5SwBItL_SvWCZ3H2GpDF08x1BuBF4Mmwvl5AejW1CsNACvlJBf7VN/s1600/Frigga+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-nJ5X5zUxCWsjbn0031KL0y3k0Zd95OKNs0mjwdmTJ9TVJenZNI8mA6aOpCWKrDQkE4jHaowg0FTOXGo6hrcY-u5SwBItL_SvWCZ3H2GpDF08x1BuBF4Mmwvl5AejW1CsNACvlJBf7VN/s320/Frigga+1.jpg" width="180" /></a>One of the things that I realized, however, is that the woman in the video is weaving on a loom where the top beam is at her head level. The more I thought about it, the more it made sense. Anything out of reach is just silly, so I decided late today that the loom needed to be shorter. I unscrewed the crotches and top support and chopped another foot off the top. I reassembled the pieces; now the top beam is sitting at about 62" instead of a ridiculous 78". Now she feels right. Maybe it seems weird, but she feels alive! She even told me her name. Frigga.<br />
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First, though, I need to finish weaving the Perle Cotton piece I have on my inkle loom. Better get on it!elewyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11511877857832313331noreply@blogger.com0